The owner and mastermind behind Atsui Tokyo, a store that specializes in the latest Japanese fashion lines in Seattle, talks to Fadmashion.com about why he felt it was worth bringing young Japanese designers' lines to the US -- and what he looks for in a new line. Jay Doughten reveals the challenges of bringing some of the designs inspired by the birthplace of fashion to the US and why he thinks incredible design talent like Stodja is underrepresented outside of Japan.

What made you decide to open Atsui Tokyo? What is some of the history behind it?

There are many reasons that I opened Atsui Tokyo (which just opened August 2007), but the number one reason is that I felt that there was a need for Japanese designer brands in Seattle and in the US. There are so many great designers in Japan and they are under represented. Pick up any Japanese fashion magazine like Men’s Non-No or Huge you will see a number of fantastic designers who very popular in Japan but have not yet made it to US. Most of the larger and more established labels such as De Garcon, Junya, and Yohji have been in the US for quite some time, but these labels are typically expensive and many times hard to wear. They tend to be too avant-garde for typical Americans or Japanese. Our focus is working with the young and up-and-coming designers of Japan and those that are ambitious and want to expand to the US or Europe and not that extra high price level.

How many designers do you carry at one time, approximately?

We currently have about 12 labels and we are always negotiating with new designers to see if they are the right fit. We plan to add one or two labels each season. In the 2008 Spring collections which will start to arrive in January we are adding Stodja for men. Stodja is a label based out of Osaka, Japan and the designer studied in New York prior to starting this label almost 5 years ago. Stodja is an avant-garde style, but affordable. Most of the pieces are in the $100-$200 range and dresses or jackets as high as $400. We started with women’s Stodja several months ago and it has been very successful, thus we are adding men’s Stodja. Many pieces are unisex as well.

Can you describe what you look for when you search for a new collection?

The first thing I look for in a new collection is quality. There are several designers that we have met that are popular, but are not at the right standard that we demand. We want Atsui Tokyo’s customers to recognize that products and designers we carry use the highest level of materials and designs that are one-of-kind. Any item purchased at Atsui is guaranteed to be a piece that our customer will appreciate. For example, Gunze is a very famous underwear and hosiery company that is over 100 years old and all made in Japan. Their company motto is putting quality first while maintaining a low price point. Their women’s hoses and stockings have fabulous designs and prices start at about $7.00. These have been one of our best sellers!

Other things we look for in new designer is how many years they have been established in Japan, price point compared to similar styles, and how organized they run their business. Also, sizing can be an issue. Most designers in Japan do not make a size that will fit the typical American body type. For example, I am 6’ and weigh 170 lbs. and I find it difficult to wear men’s size 3 by certain labels. Our men’s label Mr. Olive is just starting making size 4 for us this Spring (their size 3 is similar to a US medium.) There are many challenging things to consider with every collection.

What would make you take a chance on a new designer?

Just have a good feeling about their product is sometimes enough. Our brand Stodja for instance is a good example. The first time I saw a few of their pieces I thought “who the hell would every wear that?” I like their flair and quality and we gave them a shot and they have become one of our best designers and we have decided to expand their collection to both men and women’s.

What, in your opinion, makes a designer successful?

Time. It takes a long time for a designer to develop a customer base and a following. I like working with the young and ambitious labels, but they need to be at least established in Japan first. Our label Man of Moods for example was featured in December 2007 Men’s Non-No as the new boutique of the year (just opened their Tokyo flagshop) and the designer to watch for in 2008. They are just starting year number 5 and they will be around for many years to come. One of our women’s labels, Filly O’Lynx is starting year number 10 and they still have not reached their full potential.

Do you have any favorite designers?

Mr. Olive and Man of Moods are my favorite men’s labels. I like them because they are easy to wear, comfortable, and they make me look good. Both labels are fitted styles so you are not going to see any boxy dress shirts. Mr. Olive is slightly more casual with a super tight fit, even tight by Japanese standards. I really like their denim. The style is not over the top with washes or cut details, does not stretch out, and has creative angled pockets – very stylish and price point is between $200-$300. They are making size 4 this Spring which will be similar to US large. Man of Moods is a very sleek look; fabulous dress shirts, jackets, and pants that would rival most European labels. The influence behind the 2007 fall/winter collection was the Alfred Hitchcock movie “The Birds” thus most of the t-shirts and images depict ravens or crows. These shirts have been very popular and use a very soft fabric which is a mixture of rayon, polyester, and silk.

Filly O’Lynx is my favorite women’s brand. Most items are a one-size philosophy which most items can fit between a size 0-4. All items are very fun, comfortable fit, and use the highest quality materials. It has a “girly” element although it is not made for kids. Our average customer for Filly O’Lynx is mid-40 but we sell this brand to all ages, teenagers to even my grandmother.

Can you let the audience know how you see the Japanese fashion scene in comparison to the New York or LA fashion scene? Is Tokyo the birthplace of new fashion trends these days?

Fashion does evolve very quickly in Japan and many fashion trends begin there before they reach the US or Europe. New York and LA has their place, but Tokyo is different. It is full of energy and I do prefer the fashion out of Tokyo and I feel that it is underrepresented in the US – that is one of the many reasons that I started Atsui Tokyo. Japan as a whole is way more advanced than the US when it comes to fashion. Japanese know how to dress and want to look good. Tokyo is also the birthplace of many fashion trends but more importantly it is the birthplace of many great designers. If you walk in Daikanyama (district of Tokyo) for instance, you will find flagship shops and press rooms for dozens of young designers who are established or just getting started. It does not stop in Tokyo either. As a mater of fact, Osaka may even be more advanced than Tokyo as many of the designers are a little more fashion-forward. Our label Stodja started in Osaka and is just now gaining popularity in Tokyo. Pick-up any Japanese fashion magazine like “Sweet”, “Huge”, “Men’s Non-No”, “JJ”, or “AneCan” and you will see numerous new designers and styles that you just wished were in the US. My goal is to bring some of the best.