A new generation of knitwear designers are breathing life into the catwalk scene.
After years of searching for a knitwear brand that didn’t bore me senseless and coming up empty handed, I was stopped in my tracks when I saw Lucas Nascimento’s dramatic forms that evoked an avant-garde aesthetic, but still maintained complete wearability. As seen in this month’s I.D. magazine, Nascimento’s collection adds fluidness and a dollop of modernity to the humble art of traditional knitting. Sexy pleated jumpsuits, chunky knit capes, and intricate whispy webs making up his slinky dresses are a far cry from grandma's pearl-buttoned cardigans.
How did you get your start?
After cutting my teeth producing a lot of hand knitted pieces at Sid Bryan's studio in London I was approached by Brazilian label Ellus to do some show pieces for their sub-label "Second Floor". This was a real success in the press and really helped launch my knitwear in Brazil and internationally.
How would you describe your style and it's evolution over time?
Starting from that single thread every piece grows individually around my influences for each collection but there are the essentials that remain: femininity, fluidity, balance and beauty.
Do you have any upcoming projects or launches?
I am currently in the process of launching my own collection which is really exciting. And you will get plenty of opportunity to see some of my work in the upcoming shows both in London and Sao Paulo.There has been a lot of talk about the distinction between fashion and art.
What category would your work fall into?
There is definitely an art and craft to my designs and for knitwear especially. I am aware of recent trends, especially in show pieces for more conceptual and theoretical designs and themes. However, my passion is for the practical relationship between the organic and mathematical and the body as a space for representation and a more constructivist approach to design. I think that this is a fundamental principle to my fashion designs, and should be at the heart of the fashion industry.
Are there any creatives or designers that influence your work?
I have a great respect for my colleagues and personal icons, however these are my own personal references. I think it is a betrayal to the design process to focus or publicize those people. Sometimes I feel the fashion world concentrates to much on naval gazing, there is a whole world of inspiration out there. In my design process I think this is never a fixed thing, it is always in flux and I think this shows in the versatility and feeling of exploration inherent in my pieces.
What challenges do you face in producing your collections?
As ever there are the practical concerns, but for me the challenge is to produce a collection most true to my belief in my craft and in the possibilities inherent in contemporary fashion knitwear.
Who would you like to see wear your pieces?
Those with taste, balance, elegance and sophistication and maybe a tiny inkling towards voluminous extravagance. www.lucasnascimento.com